🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.